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Last updated:

16 December 2011

 

 

 

 

 

 

Restaurants, cafés and bars in Essaouira ...

Essaouira is full of characterful restaurants serving good, freshly cooked, food in interesting surroundings and you should find something to suit most tastes and budgets within 10 minutes walk of your accommodation. The restaurants are generally clean with good standards of hygiene and service is normally excellent. As many of them are small and have weekly and annual closures it is best to book in advance if you are keen to try a particular place. Please note that most restaurants do not accept credit cards – even if they have a sign saying that they do! In general, the smaller, cheaper or more traditional restaurants don’t serve alcohol whereas the more upmarket ones do, though the choice is usually quite limited (even if the list isn’t!). Restaurants which don’t have a licence sometimes allow you to take your own but you should always ask first. Moroccan wines come in red, white, rosé and 'gris' (a sort of light rosé) and range from drinkable to quite good. The local ‘Mogador’ wines from the nearby Val d'Argan Vineyard are among the best in Morocco, though they are relatively expensive and not often offered on wine lists.  

 

Below is a summary of our current favourite eating and drinking places (the ones we go back to time and time again), plus others which we and our guests also enjoy. For more information about any of these, click on its name, and to find out where they are see our map.

 

This summary is followed by details of just about every named restaurant, café and bar in town, together with recommendations based on a number of sources, including word of mouth, the web, guide books and our own and clients' personal experience. For a copy of the full list in printable form, click here. If you would like to see what other people are recommending at the moment, the best place is TripAdvisor  - in a place as vibrant as Essaouira where new places are opening all the time, guidebooks can never be fully up-to-date, even if they have just been published.

 

Summary of recommendations (see below for full descriptions of these and the other restaurants in town):

 

 

Our favourites

We also like

Breakfast:

Fanatic

Place Marché aux Grains

 

Chalet de la Plage Café

patisserie Driss

le Glacier

place Moulay Hassan

Lunch:

la Cantina

Fanatic

place Marché aux Grains

Ocean Vagabond Beach Café

Ocean Vagabond Hotel

Taros roof terrace

la Tête dans les Etoiles 

Baraka

café de la Baie

pasta Baladin

Casa Vera roof terrace

Crêperie Mogador

les Gargottes

Café Jalil (for takeaway)

Chez El Ouazzani (for takeaway)

Miyame Resto

la Triskalla

Dinner:

les Alizés de Mogador

Caravan Café

Elizir

Miyame Resto

d'Orient et d'Ailleurs

Le Patio

Sirocco

Taros

Villa Maroc

 

après Cinq

Coin des Artistes (soirée musicale)

la Découverte

Ferdaouss

l'Heure Bleu Palais (for special occasions)

Les Italiens

Laayoune

Lalla Mira

La Licorne

la Mama

el Menzah

M’Riste Jouhar

dar l'Oussia

chez Sam

Drinks:

Beach and Friends

Casa Vera

dar l'Oussia roof terrace

Ocean Vagabond Beach Café (until 18:00)

Taros roof terrace (lunchtime and from 18:00)

Villa Maroc

Bar

Chalet de la Plage Café

Il Mare

le Mechouar

el Mehdi

el Menzah

le Trou !

 

Key to symbols in the listings which follow:

    =  Serves breakfast

*  = Serves tea, coffee and soft drinks

*  = Serves hot meals

*  = Does takeaways

*  = Usually takes credit cards

*    = Sometimes has live music

*     = Serves alcohol with meals

*    = Serves Alcohol without meals

 

                                                     

                                                                                                                                                                                                     Click on photos to enlarge

AFTASS                                                                         

Modest café on Place Moulay Hassan serving the standard menu of French, Moroccan, Italian and seafood dishes.

Address: Place Moulay Hassan                                     

Cost: Breakfast: 25 DH, One course: 10 – 45 DH, 3 courses 40 – 60 DH (March 2009)

 

Chez AHMED                                                                         

One of several little cafés with outside tables in the peaceful former grain market. Serves good breakfasts, juices and light lunches. 

Address: 222 Place Marché aux Grains

Cost: Breakfast: 24 – 35 DH, One course: 15 - 65 DH, 3 courses: 550 - 60 DH (October 2011)                            

 

AIGUE MARINE                                                                     WiFi

Modern restaurant/pub/tapas bar just across the road from the beach (about 10 minutes walk from the medina - beneath La Petite Algue). You can eat in the subtly-lit main restaurant, at counters overlooking the sea or outside. Specialities include chi’ hiwates (Moroccan tapas), couscous royale (Friday only) and mechoui (barbecued marinated lamb) to order. Wines are relatively expensive and not all bottles (or dishes) on the list may be available. Has popular live music sessions on Friday and Saturday from about 23:00 onwards.

Address: 62 Boulevard Mohamed V Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 78 48 28 Website: www.aiguemarine.ma

Cost: Tapas: 25 – 50 DH, One course: 40 – 250 DH, 3 courses: 110 – 400 DH  (October 2011)

 

les ALIZÉS DE MOGADOR                                                         

One of the most popular little restaurants in town, Les Alizés serves hearty portions of delicious Moroccan home cooking in a cosy, candlelit room. The short 3-course menu is good value, as is the wine, and the service is relaxed, friendly and efficient.  Open daily for lunch and dinner. Booking is advisable in the evening which, when busy, has two sittings – about 19:30 and 21:30.  Note; not to be confused with Atlas Hotel's Les Alizés upmarket international restaurant.

Address: 26 Rue Skala Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 68 19                      

Cost: 3 courses: 149 DH  (October 2010)                             

Recommended by: Footprint Africa 2009, Lonely Planet 2011, Michelin 2007, Rough Guide 2007, Routard 2010, Time Out 2008,

 

 

l'ARBRE BLEU                                                                      *

Atmospheric little art gallery nestling just inside the medina's wall close to its eastern bastion. You can have tea and cakes in the colourful interior surrounded by a good range of artwork chosen or painted by the welcoming owner, French artist Monique Favière, The surrounding Chbanat district, which is off the beaten tourist track, is well worth a leisurely exploration. Open Monday - Saturday 10:00 - 13:00 and 15:00 - 19:00.

Address: 233 Rue Chbanat Tel: 0 (0 212) 6 78 57 39 42 Website: www.moniquefaviere.com

les ARCADES                                                                            *   

No-nonsense candlelit little place with low banquette seating from where you can watch locals promenading along the main street while you eat. Menu includes Moroccan dishes, fish, pizza, pasta and omelettes.

Address: Avenue de l’Istiqal                   

Cost: Breakfast: 10 – 25 DH, One course: 15 – 65 DH, 3 courses: 60 – 110 (March 2011)

l'ARTISAN PIZZAS                                                            

Behind the large glass window is a contemporary black and white painted room in which are squeezed the kitchen and three two-seater tables. There is also a cosy mezzanine and four further tables outside. Serves pizza, pasta, salads and desserts. Does takeaways and will deliver.

Address: 4 Rue El Fatouaki Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 78 46 89           

Cost: One course: 25 - 70 DH, 3 courses: 95 – 150 (May 2010)

Recommended by: Footprint Africa 2009

Café des ARTS                                                                

Deceptively attractive candlelit stairs lead to tiny first and second floor dining areas with rather odd décor, food and service.

Address: Avenue de l’Istiqlal                  

Cost: One course: 12 – 85 DH, 3 courses: 47 – 145 (March 2009)

Recommended by: Footprint Africa 2009

 

ATLAS HOTEL                                                                 

Large modern hotel opposite the beach about 20 minutes walk from the medina. Has three restaurants: Le Sept (by the beach - see separate enty), Les Alizés and Le Safran.

Address: Boulevard Mohamed V

- les ALIZÉS (ATLAS HOTEL)                                                       

Not to be confused with the medina’s lovely little Les Alizés de Mogador, this is an upmarket restaurant serving international cuisine.

Cost: 3 courses: 70 - 180 DH, 3 courses: 240 - 370 DH per person (March 2009)                             

- le SAFRAN                                                

Serves Moroccan cuisine in upmarket surroundings.

Cost: 3 courses:  250 - 350 DH per person (March 2009)

 

 

 

BAB LAACHOUR                                                                         

Café/restaurant with nicely situated roof terrace overlooking Place Moulay Hassan and the sea. Basic cooking includes Italian and Moroccan dishes, seafood, omelettes, salads and grills.

Address: Place Moulay Hassan Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 66 70                          

Cost: One course: 20 - 400 DH, 3 courses: 45 – 460 DH (April 2009)

 

dar BABA                                                                         

First floor restaurant serving simple Italian food.

Address: 2 Rue de Marrakech Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 68 09                                

Cost: One course: 35 DH, 3 courses: 105 – 165 DH (June 2008)

Recommended by: Michelin 2007

 

café de la BAIE                                                                         Popular suntrap by the beach serving panini, omelettes, crêpes, tajines, salads, pasta and grills. Note: food is only served at set meal times and alcohol is only available with hot dishes.

Address: Boulevard d Mohammed V  Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 40 76     

Cost: Breakfast: 30 DH, One course: 25 - 60 DH,  3 courses: 65 – 130 DH (March 2010)

 

Pasta BALADIN                                                                   

Modern Italian-run pasta bar opposite the Alliance Française where you can mix and match from 5 types of pasta and 10 sauces, plus salads and desserts. Open daily 12:00 - 14:00 and 19:00 - 23:00.

Address: 48 Rue Laalouj Tel: 0 (0 212) 6 42 448 136 / 0 (0 212) 6 61 604 504 Website: www.riadbaladin.com
Cost: One course:  40 - 60 DH, 3 courses: 90 - 110 DH (October 2010)

 

BAR                                                                                              

Simple local drinking den attached to Chalet de la Plage. Locals tend to congregate inside whilst backpackers gather at sunset on the small terrace overlooking the beach. Open until 20:00.

Address: 1 Boulevard Mohammed V (on the south side of Chalet de La Plage)

Recommended by: Time Out 2008

 

Riad Al-BARAKA                                                                           

Courtyard restaurant with shabby-chic décor, a huge fig tree and atmospheric music. The courtyard is a good place to have lunch on a sunny day and is nice and sheltered when it is windy. In the evening there is usually a roaring fire in the restaurant proper.  Food is mainly Moroccan/French.   

Address: 113 Rue Mohamed al Qorry Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 35 61                 

Cost: One course: 30 – 100 DH, 3 courses: 105 - 200 DH (May 2009)

Recommended by: Lonely Planet 2011

BEACH AND FRIENDS                                                  WiFi

Laid back restaurant at the far end of the beach, in a complex just before the dunes. There is a large modern interior plus 'garden' outside with decking, comfortable settees, sunloungers and a play area for children. The international menu includes salads, sandwiches, pizzas, burgers, tapas and plats du jour. In the evening a blazing firebowl ensures that it is never too chilly.

Address: Boulevard Mohamed V                

Cost: One course: 30 – 120 DH, 3 courses: 105 - 225 DH (October 2011)

BELDY                                                                                           

Berber restaurant serving a good range of tajines, couscous and pastilla as well as set menus.  No alcohol but you can bring your own. Open every day.

Address: 6 Rue Ibn Toumerte Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 67 12

Cost: One course: 15 - 95 DH, 3 courses: 85 – 150 (March 2010)

Recommended by: Routard 2010

BEN MOSTAFA                                                                       *   

Pavement café on Place Moulay Hassan. Serves pizza, pasta, seafood, Moroccan dishes, omelettes and salads.

Address: 20 Place Moulay Hassan Tel: 0 (0 212) 6 13 11 70 20

Cost: Breakfast: 25 – 40 DH, One course: 15 – 80 DH, 3 courses 50 - 150 (March 2010)

 

pâtisserie la BIENVENU                                                         *

Elegant little pâtisserie/delicatessen which has a few interior tables (including a cosy salon area) where you can have tea or coffee with your gateaux. Also serves breakfast.

Address: 7 Rue Abdelaziz El Fachtali (Chourej) Tel: 0 (0 212) 6 12 01 95 80/0 (0 212) 6 77 54 01 19

Cost: Breakfast: 25 – 35 DH (November 2010)

au BONHEUR DES DAMES                                                   WiFi

Small French-run café - one of a group of three with outside seating in the peaceful former Grain Market.  A huge selection of teas, infusions and coffees (including decaffeinated), interesting fruit and vegetable cocktails, snacks and ice-cream are produced in a tiny kiosk and served at tables outside in the square. Lunch is a daily-changing menu of light and tasty dishes such as bruschetta with tapenade and goats cheese.  Closed Sundays.

Address: Place Marché aux Grains Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 59 68 Website: www.bonheurdesdames-essaouira.com

Cost: Breakfast: 25 - 35 DH, Brunch: 60 - 85, One course: 60 - 65 DH (November 2011) 

Recommended by: Lonely Planet 2011, Routard 2010, Time Out 2008                          

 

 

 

 

café BOUAMAMA                                                                    

Bouâmama has two little cafés with outside tables - one at each end of the peaceful former grain market. Serves a good choice of breakfast dishes including freshly-made Berber bread, M’smen (flaky pancakes), crêpes and amlou (almond, honey and argan oil paste). At lunchtime there are snacks such as omelettes, salads, grills and  tajines.   

Address: Place Marché aux Grains

Cost: Breakfast: 22 - 32 DH,  Brunch: 48 DH, 3 courses: 39 - 70 (October 2011)             

 

chez BRIXI                                                                                  

One of several little cafés with outside tables in the peaceful former grain market. Serves a good breakfast, brunch and lunch (tajines, couscous, seafood, salads, crêpes etc).

Address: Place Marché aux Grains

Cost: Breakfast: 23 - 35 DH, Brunch: 55 DH, One course: 30 - 60, DH (October 2011)      

la CANTINA                                                                   

Friendly little English-run café with a vaguely Mexican bias. Vegetarians are well catered for (Steve was a veggie before he opened the café) but there are also plenty of meat dishes, including their very popular home-made burgers. Sharon bakes the bread, scones and excellent cakes. They also do take-aways. Open 12:00 – 14:00 every day except Monday. Usually closes in January/February.

Address: 66 Rue Boutouil Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 45 15                                   

Cost: One course: 40 - 65 DH, 3 courses: 55 - 75 DH (October 2011)

Recommended by: Footprint Africa 2009, Time Out 2008

 

 

 

CARAVAN CAFE                                                                          

The deceptively small and hard to find entrance in a lane opposite Pharmacie Alhaddadah leads to a riad full of modern and oriental art and sculpture. International cuisine, tea and drinks are served from 14:00 until the evening every day except Sunday and Monday.

Address: 2 bis Rue Cadi Ayad (opposite Pharmacie Alhaddadah) Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 78 31 11

Cost: One course: 55 - 180 DH, 3 courses: 140 - 330 DH (October 2011)  

CASA VERA                                                                               

Large tapas bar/restaurant in a prime location on Place Moulay Hassan. It is worth a visit just for the elaborate interior décor, which includes a wealth of traditional techniques offset by modern furniture, and the modern roof terrace (The Pink Garden) which has amazing views and live music most evenings. Serves drinks, tapas and full meals (mainly Spanish/seafood).  Open 12:00 – 00:00 except Tuesdays.

Address: Place Moulay Hassan Tel: 00 212 (0) 5 24 78 31 05 Websiste: www.casavera.ma

Cost: Tapas: 15 - 120 DH One course: 55 - 145 DH, 3 courses: 160 - 305, (April 2011) 

Recommended by: Routard 2010                           

 

 

CAVERNE ALI BABA                                                              

Deceptively spacious restaurant (and hotel) at the end of an alley which doubles as a showroom for for the plate shop next door. Food is Moroccan, Italian, fish and omelettes.

Address: 29 Avenue de l’Istiqal Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 53 54

Cost: One course, 15 – 80 DH, 3 courses: 65 – 155 DH (June 2008)

 

CHALET DE LA PLAGE/CHEZ JEANNOT                                                 

Long established (1924) and beautifully situated restaurant with a shady terrace (not open at night) jutting out over the beach (which is floodlit at night). Specialises in seafood. Gets busy at lunchtime and seats on the terrace go quickly so it is best to book if you want to sit there. Closed Sunday evening and Monday lunchtime. Wine list includes some local specialities. Also has an open-air café – see below.

Address: 1 Boulevard Mohammed V Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 59 72

Cost: One course: 45 - 150 DH, 3 courses: 125 - 305 DH (March 2009)

Recommended by: Footprint Africa 2009, Michelin 2007, Time Out 2008

 

CHALET DE LA PLAGE CAFÉ                                                        WiFi

On the medina side of Chalet de la Plage restaurant is an open terrace which, on calm days, is a good place for drinks. There is no menu but you can request a limited range of dishes for breakfast (and sometimes lunch).  The view is great!

Address: 1 Boulevard Mohammed V Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 59 72   

Cost: Breakfast: 30 DH (October 2011)

 

les CHANDELIERS                                                                        

Popular restaurant opposite the museum serving standard French, Moroccan, Italian and seafood. Has a lounge/bar upstairs.

Address: 14 Rue Laâlouj Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 58 27                                     

Cost: One course: 50 – 180 DH,  3 courses: 95 – 355 DH (November 2008)                             

 

le CHRYSALIS                                                                      

A large modern restaurant just outside the medina in a modern complex next to Hotel des Iles. You can have meals in the spacious, luxuriously-decorated interior or snacks at the comfortable outside terrace. The rather pretentious menu features upmarket International dishes. Open 10:00 - 02:00. Live music from 23:00h.

Address: Complexe Bin Al Aswar Tel: + 212 (0) 5 24 30 30 50 Website: www.lechrysalis.com

Cost: One course: 60 - 240, 3 courses: 225 - 500 DH (March 2011)

après CINQ/le CINQ                                                       *        WiFi

This chic restaurant/bar attached to the Madada Mogador Hotel has warm stone arches, modern purple and pink décor with giant lampshades (but subtle lighting!) and a lovely fireplace. The menu is mainly modern European with some oriental touches. Open from 12:00 to 23:00. Happy hour 17:00 – 19:00. Closed on Tuesdays.

Address: 7 Rue Youssef El Fassi Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 33 49

Cost: One course: 60 - 160 DH, 3 courses: 230 - 315 DH (January 2010)

Recommended by: Footprint Africa 2009, Lonely Planet 2011, Michelin 2007, Routard 2010

 

le CLE DE LA VOUTE                                                                       

Modern orange, black and white restaurant off Derb Laalouj. Serves burgers, quiches, salads and traditional French dishes.

Address:  off Derb LaaloujTel: 0 (0 212) 6 58 83 64 96 Email:l awrencequammu@yahoo.fr

Cost: One course: 35 - 120 DH, 3 courses: 140 - 224 dh (March 2011)

 

COIN DES ARTISTES, riad SIDI MAGDOUL                                  WiFi

Not to be confused with the more central Café des Arts. This little arts café is on  the ground floor of a French-run hotel which you will find down a covered alleyway linking the medina’s two main shopping streets. Sometimes has exhibitions and most evenings from 19:00 there is a soirée musicale  accompanied by a simple menu du jour.  See blackboard in the foyer for details.  Closed Mondays.

Address: Rue Sidi Abdessamih Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 70 24 69 51 Website: www.lecoineessaouira.com (and Facebook)

Cost: 3 courses: 95 DH (November 2010)                           

 

 

 

le COQUILLAGE/RESTAURANT DU PORT                                              

Large restaurant with terrace overlooking the beach. Popular with coach parties.

Address: Le Port d'Essaouira Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 66 55       

Cost: One course: 60 – 230 DH,  3 courses: 115 - 380 DH (January 2007)

 

the CORNER PUB                                                                   

Trendy bar at the back of Le Mechouar restaurant. MTV, loud music and lighting effects.

Address: Avenue Oqba Ben Nafia Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 58 28

 

 

 

 

COTÉ PLAGE                                                                         

Next to the beach opposite Sofitel, by which it is owned. Continental menu with some good seafood dishes or barbecue on Sundays. Glass panels protect the outside terrace from wind.

Address: Boulevard Mohammed V Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 90 00

Cost: One course: 75 - 195 DH, 3 courses: 235 – 435 (November 2008)  

Recommended by: Lonely Planet 2011, Michelin 2007, Routard 2010, Time Out 2008

le CRÊPERIE MOGADOR                                                               

Cheerful little crêperie where you can eat at pine tables in the yellow interior or outside facing Place Chrib Attay (the one with the tent). Serves a good range of savoury and sweet crêpes and bolées (pottery bowls) of cider (but no other alcohol).  Open 12:00 – 15:00 and 19:00 – 22:00 except Fridays.

Address: Rue Laâlouj Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 78 30 96

Cost: Crêpes: 20 – 60 DH, ½ jug of cider (Brevage de pommes) 55 DH (November 2008)

Recommended by: Routard 2010                        

 

DAR JEELING                                                               

Basic café with outside tables on a sheltered part of Place Chrib Attay/El Khaima (the one with the tent). Serves breakfast, snacks, crêpes etc.

Address: 22 Place Chrib Attay Tel: 0 (0 212) 6 66 10 10 32

Cost: One course: 40 - 80 DH, 3 courses: 45 - 70 DH (March 2010)

 

le DAUPHIN                                                                                      

Simple little down a covered alleyway which links the medina’s two main shopping streets. Décor is fairly basic but the Moroccan home cooking is sound. 

Address: Rue Sidi Abdessamih

Cost: One course: 15 - 70 DH, 3 courses: 50 – 120 DH (April 2009)

Recommended by: Routard 2010

la DÉCOUVERTE                                                               WiFi

Tiny French-run restaurant with just six tables inside and two outside. Serves a simple menu of mainly Moroccan dishes with an emphasis on fresh local ingredients. Daily specialities such as royal couscous with camel meat are advertised on a blackboard at the end of the lane. Also has vegetarian specialities. Desserts might include lemon meringue pie or Moroccan pastries. Open 10 am to 10 pm every day except Saturday. Usually closes in January.

Address: 8 bis Rue Houmman el Fatouki Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 31 58 Website: www.essaouira-ladecouverte.com

Cost: One course: 10 – 80 DH, 3 courses: 55 – 125 DH (November 2010)

Recommended by: Footprint Africa 2009

DIABAT Café                                                                    

Tiny brightly-painted ‘hippy’ café (about 3 miles south of Essaoura, along the beach. Has outside tables overlooking what is being developed into the new 'Mogador' golf course and resort.  Serves tajines etc. Can also organise camel rides.

Address: Diabat

 

gelateria DOLCE FREDDO                                                                     

Café/gelateria on Place Moulay Hassan. Good for Italian coffee (including decaffinated) and a range of icecreams. Also offers a limited breakfast menu (or just order coffee and have a take-away from Patisserie Driss, followed by a 5 DH juice from the kiosk by the harbour). Open 07:30 – 22:00 daily.

Address: 25 Place Moulay Hassan Tel: 0 (0 212) 6 63 57 19 28 

Recommended by:  Footprint Africa 2009, Lonely Planet 2011, Rough Guide 2007, Time Out 2008

patisserie DRISS                                                                                 

Patisserie founded in 1925.  Serves croissants, tarts and cakes which can be eaten with coffee in the small sheltered courtyard, one of two picture-lined rooms or taken to one of the cafés on Place Moulay Hassan. Breakfast (popular with locals), which includes omelettes and crêpes, can be eaten in or taken away. Also does pastilla (must be ordered in advance) and pizza.

Address: 10 Rue El Hajal                                       

Cost: Breakfast: 19 - 30 DH, pastilla 150 – 270 DH (2 - 6 people), pizza: 70 – 220 DH (2 – 8 people) (October 2010)Recommended by: Lonely Planet 2011, Michelin 2007, Rough Guide 2007,  Routard 2010, Time Out 2008

EARTH CAFÉ                                                                              

Brightly coloured vegetarian café based on the popular Marrakech cafe of the same name.  Serves a limited number of rather similar dishes (e.g. stuffed filo pastry, spring rolls).

Address: Rue Cadi Ayad

Cost:  One course: 60 DH (November 2009)

 

ELIZIR                                                                                         

‘Idiosyncratic cool’ is Time Out 2008’s perfect description of the interior of this quirky first floor restaurant which the owner has decorated with great originality using an eclectic and quirky range of flea market finds, retro furniture and modern art. The short menu features excellent and innovative Moroccan/Italian style dishes including home-made pasta and gnocchi. black cuttlefish risotto and a popular balsamic steak. Portions, including the complimentary starter, are generous Cosy fire in winter; roof terrace in summer. Closes for  3 days each month for staff holidays. Booking recommended.

Address: 1 Rue d’Agadir Essaouira – Maroc Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 21 03  Website:  www.elizir.com

Cost: One course: 60 - 150 DH, 3 courses: 250 – 275 DH (October 2011)

Recommended by:  Footprint Africa 2009, Lonely Planet 2011, Routard 2010, Time Out 2008

 

 

ESSALAM                                                                             *  

Popular little terrace restaurant with small terrace overlooking the lively Place Moulay Hassan. Budget set meals: soup or salad, then omelette, fish, couscous or tajine and dessert.

Address: Place Moulay Hassan Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 55 48

Cost:  Breakfast: 15 DH, 3 courses: about 30 - 65 DH  (March 2009)

Recommended by: Rough Guide 2007, Routard 2010

Café EZZAWIA/Chez BELHAJ                                                        

Snack bar plus open-fronted restaurant at the top end of the 'tourist' street. Simple Morocccan food and occasional Gnawa music

Address: 168 Avenue Sidi Mohamed Ben Abdellah Tel: 0 (0 212) 6 0264 85 50 / 0 (0 212) 6 01 92 10 93

Cost:  One course: 5 - 70 DH, 3 courses: 55 - 110 DH  (October 2011)

 

restaurant FAMILIALE                                                           

A short lane leads to a cavernous arched interior sparsely decorated with red banquette seating and neatly-laid low tables.  The cooking, which is described as 'typical Berber cuisine with argan oil' is pretty good.

Address: 8 Rue Ibnou Toumate (off Derb Laalouj) Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 78 45 31 / 0 (0 212) 6 62 35 36 49

Cost:  One course: 20 - 180 DH, 3 courses: 75 - 235 DH  (November 2010)

FANATIC                                                                  *        

Popular bistro-style café with terrace overlooking the beach. Excellent breakfasts (one is ample for two people), coffee and good lunches. Food is mainly French/Moroccan cuisine seafood and grills. Can get very busy at lunch time. Open 08:00 – 23:00 daily.

Address: Boulevard Mohammed V  Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 50 08

Cost: Breakfast: 40 DH, One course: 40 – 210 DH, 3 courses: 135 - 380 DH (October 2011)

Recommended by: Time Out 2008

 

 

FERDAOUSS                                                                                       

First floor restaurant well known for good value Moroccan home cooking. Open 12:30 – 14:30 and 18:30 – 23:00 except Mondays.

Address: 27 Rue Abdessalam Lebadi Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 36 55

Cost: One course: 35 – 65 DH, 3 courses: 110 DH (March 2010)

Recommended by: Footprint Africa 2009, Lonely Planet 2011, Michelin 2007, Routard 2010, Time Out 2008

FOUR (4) SAISONS DE MOGADOR                                                        

Narrow restaurant on four floors with a roof terrace providing an interesting view of Avenue de l’Istiqual, the medina’s main thoroughfare. The extensive menu includes pizza (downstairs only), snacks, seafood, pasta and Moroccan specialities. 

Address: Avenue de l’Istiqal                  

Cost: One course: 8 - 75 DH, 3 courses: 38 – 119 (November 2009)

café de FRANCE                                                                          

Founded in 1917, Café de France is one of the oldest and most characterful cafés on Place Moulay Hassan. Popular with locals for mint tea and coffee. Does not do food at lunchtime but serves a limited breakfast menu until 10:00. In the evening, serves pizza, pasta, seafood, Moroccan dishes, omelettes and salads .

Address: Place Moulay Hassan

Cost: Breakfast: 20 DH, One course: 13 – 40 DH (March 2011)

chez FRANÇOISE                                                                     

French-run café and tea room with 2 long banquettes on opposite walls and 8 tiny tables in between. There are also a couple of small tables in the road outside. Françoise serves a simple menu of soup, sweet and savoury tarts and crêpes.

Address: 1 Rue Hoummam El Fatouaki Tel: 0 (0 212) 6 68 16 40 87

Cost: One course: 20 – 65 DH, 3 courses: 75 – 85 DH (March 2011)

Recommended by: Michelin 2007

chez les FRERES                                                                

Cheerful and laid back little place run by two enthusiastic brothers. Freshly-made pizza, pasta and Moroccan dishes including specialities, some of which have to be ordered in advance. You can eat in the restaurant at traditional banquettes and low tables or take away.

Address: 3 Bia, Rue sidi Mgdoul Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 58 25 or 0 (0 212) 6 72 38 88 96

Cost: Breakfast: 20 – 25 DH, One course: 10 - 70 DH, 3 courses: 45 - 120 DH (November 2008)

les GARGOTTES (GRILLED SEAFOOD STALLS)                                  

An L-shaped group of blue and white stalls where you can choose from displays of freshly-caught seafood then have it expertly cooked over charcoal and simply served with a bread (and, if you have a strong constitution, a tasty salad). Our favourite is the centre stall (Brest Campère, No. 29) – and if you head diagonally across the gardens to reach it you can avoid being hassled by the other stallholders as they compete for your custom. If you are after a cheap lunch beware of inadvertently choosing prime fish (prices per kg are fixed and listed on a board at the end of the row so you may want to check first). For a good value meal specify the maximum price that you are prepared to pay - 60 DH will buy quite a feast. Open 11:00 – 16:00 daily.

Address: Le Port d'Essaouira

Cost: E.g. Sardines: 3 for 10 DH, mixture: 60 DH, Lobster: 400 DH per kilo (January 2010)                             

Recommended by:  Footprint Africa 2009, Lonely Planet 2011, Michelin 2007, Rough Guide 2007,Routard 2010, Time Out 2008,

 

 

GINGER CAFE                                                                       

Small café serving teas, coffees, smoothies cakes, sandwiches and daily specialities for lunch and dinner. You can eat in the bright modern interior or at a couple of low tables outside. Also has information on activities such as 4x4 adventures.

Address: 8 Rue Ibn Rochid Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 78 51 20 Website: www.gingermorocco.com

Cost: Breakfast: 30 - 35 DH, One course: 35 - 50 DH (October 2011)

le GLACIER                                                                        

Small café/pizzeria at the heart of the medina. Good for people-watching from outside tables which catch the sun at breakfast time. Simple menu of salads, omelettes, pizza, pasta and tajines Also does take-aways.

Address: On the corner of Rue Sidi Mohammed Ben Abdelah and Rue Laâlouj

Cost: Breakfast: 30 DH, One course: 10 - 45 DH, 3 courses: 35 - 95 DH (November 2010)

GNAWA BLUES                                                                                                                

Trendy little café where you can get a substantial breakfast, salads, seafood, Italian and Moroccan dishes. You can sit outside overlooking Place El Menzah (provided it isn’t windy as there isn't much shelter) or in the tiny interior.

Address: Avenue Oqba Ben Nafia

Cost: Breakfast: 30, One course: 10 - 100 DH, 3 courses: 40 - 165DH (May 2010)

le GRAND LARGE                                                                     

Atmospheric little tea salon and restaurant with exposed stone walls and arches. Serves fish, pizza, tajines and couscous.

Address: 2 Rue Oum Rabia Tel: + 212 (0) 5 24 47 28 66 Website: www.riadlegrandlarge.com

Cost: One course: about 80 DH (November 2007)

 

GREEN WOK THAI                                                                                

Just off Place Moulay Hassan, this little cafe serves tasty Thai food in simple surroundings.

Address: 6 rue El  Hajjali, Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 78 30 28  

Cost: One course: 30 - 85 DH, 3 Courses: 70 - 160 (October 2011)

 

 

l’HEURE BLEU PALAIS                                                            

Upmarket restaurant on the ground floor of the smartest hotel in town  - a large riad decorated in a mixture of colonial and European country house style.  You can eat in the panelled dining room or, on warm evenings, in the romantic courtyard. The menu is modern international cuisine with subtle Moroccan touches. Cooking is of a very high standard with subtle blending of flavours and excellent presentation. The hotel also has a pleasant café/bar by the roof-top pool (the pool is not open to non-residents) where you can get salads, sandwiches, grills, ice-cream and drinks.

Open: Main restaurant 19:30 – 22:00, Rooftop café 12:30 – 16:30

Address: 2 Rue Ibn Batouta, Bab Marrakech  Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 78 34 34 Website: www.heure-bleue.com

Cost (Main restaurant/Salon Oriental): One course: 170 – 400 DH, 3 courses: 540 – 790 DH (April 2011)

Cost (Rooftop café): One course: 155- 265 DH, 3 courses: 405 – 555 DH (April 2008)

Recommended by: Routard 2010

l’HORLOGE                                                                                    

Outside tables in a small leafy square surrounded by a display of Moroccan lamps and rugs from nearby shops. Simple menu consisting of tajines, couscous and omelettes. Service can be unenthusiastic but the the Malian music from the CD shop  next door is very atmospheric.

Address: Place Chefchaouni

Cost: Breakfast: 17 – 25 DH, One course: 10 – 60 DH (November 2010)

Recommended by: Lonely Planet 2011, Michelin 2007, Routard 2010

dar al HOUMA                                                                   

Deceptively spacious candlelit restaurant amongst the carpet sellers between Place Moulay Hassan and Place Chefchaouni. Seafood, omelettes, pasta and Moroccan dishes are served in three fabric-lined rooms with banquette seating. An alternative budget choice if you can’t get a table in the popular Laayoune opposite.

Address: 9 Rue El Hajjali Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 78 33 87                                

Cost: One course: 10 - 80 DH, 3 courses: 33 - 153 DH (October 2010)

Recommended by: Footprint Africa 2009

hotel IBIS, SUD & CIE RESTAURANT                                           

Modern hotel restaurant about 40 minutes walk from the medina. The minimalist Sud & Cie restaurant serves Moroccan, Lebanese, Spanish and Italian dishes. The main reason for eating or drinking here is that it entitles you to use the swimming pool.

Address: Route de Marrakech Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 92 80 /0 (0 212) 5 24 47 92 81

Cost: One course: 40 - 120 DH, 3 courses: 130 – 220 DH (May 2009)

les ITALIENS                                                                     

A bright red staircase leads to this modern red, white and black restaurant on two floors. The extensive Italian menu includes wood-fired pizza. The food is well-presented and the atmosphere is lively. There are good views of the ramparts from the two terraces.

Address: 88 Rue Laalouj Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 21 63 Website: www.lesitaliens.com

Cost: One course: 40 - 160 DH, 3 courses: 100 – 320 DH (March 2011)

Café JALIL                                                                                                                             

Tiny hole in the wall snack bar offering simple but delicious Moroccan food to take away (bring your own container) or eat at one of two tiny tables outside. The menu is simple (tajine du jour, lentils, omelette and Friday couscous) but they will also cook any tajine to order given two hours notice.

Address: Rue Siyaghine Tel: 0 (0 212) 6 58 37 69 56

Cost: One course: 6 - 20 DH (October 2011)

le JOLI COIN                                                                                                                                                      

Popular little café and take-away just round the corner from Place Moulay Hassan Specialises in  take-away pizza, kebabs and sandwiches.

Address: 21 Rue El Hajjali Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 37 94

Cost: One course: 10 – 40 DH (November 2007)                             

 

el KHAIMA                                                                                    

Surprisingly spacious and cosy restaurant based around a Moroccan tent (El Khaima means The Tent) . Multiligual menu (with some amusing translations!) includes salads, omelettes, pizza, seafood  and French/Moroccan food

Address: Place Chrib Attay (off Rue Laâlouj) Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 60 52                       

Cost: One course: 20 – 120 DH, 3 courses; 65 - 210 DH (November 2008)

al KHANSAA                                                                             

Riad recently restored by an artistic Moroccan family with unnusual and eclectic taste. The dining area is dominated by a unique fountain sculpture and fantasy fireplace. Simple set menus with a limited choice of mainly Moroccan food. Open every day until 23:00.

Address: 60-62 Rue Touahen Tel: + 212 (0) 5 24 47 66 17 Website: www.hotelriad-alkhansaa.com

Cost: 3 courses: 100 - 150 DH (November 2007)

Chez KHERFA                                                                  

Two entrances lead to this colourful little terrace restaurant overlooking Derb Laalouj on one side and Place Chrib Attay/El Khaima on the other. Simple menu of omletettes, pasta, tajines etc.

Address: Derb Laalouj

Cost: Breakfast: 25 - 45 DH, One course: 10 - 60 DH, 3 courses: 35 - 130 DH (March 2010)

 

KM 8                                                                              

Surprising oasis 8 km to the south of Essaouira in an unpreposessing roadside location next to a shop selling cane and palm rope furniture. Has a lovely courtyard and excellent French/Moroccan cuisine and seafood. Closed on Monday.

Address: Rue d’Agadir Ghazoua Tel: 0 (0 212) 6 66 25 21 23

Cost: One course: about 80 DH (November 2007) 

Recommended by: Michelin 2007, Routard 2010                           

 

LAAYOUNE                                                                                                                                                                       

Very popular little restaurant among the carpet shops between Place Moulay Hassan and Place Chefchaouni. Serves good value Moroccan food, crêpes, omelettes and fish. Banquette seating with low tables, a relaxed atmosphere and efficient service. Turnaround is rapid so it is often worth waiting for a table to became available (but not so good if you want o make an evening of it). 

Closed on Friday.

Address: 4 bis Rue El Hajjali Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 46 43

Cost: One course: 10 – 70 DH, 3 courses: 32 -  118 DH (October 2010)

Recommended by: Michelin 2007, Rough Guide 2007, Routard 2010  

LALLA MIRA                                                                                 

Bright yellow restaurant on the ground floor of a German-run hotel attached to the oldest hammam in town. Serves organic food from the hotel’s own farm inculding vegetarian and fish-based 3-course menus, omelettes and tajines. Open 07:30 – 11:00, 12:00 – 14:30 and 19:00 22:00. Booking advisable for non-residents.

Address: 14 Rue d’Algerie Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 50 46 Website: www.lallamira.net

Cost: Breakfast: 20 – 60 DH, One course: 6 - 150 DH, 3 courses: 90 - 140 DH (November 2008)

 

 

 

 

la LICORNE                                                                       

Spacious restaurant with baronial style Moroccan décor (deep red tadelakt walls, dark carved wood, exotic lighting). Good Moroccan/French fusion cuisine served by charming waitresses. Closed Mondays and part of January

Address: 26 Rue Skala Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 36 25  Website:  www.lalicorne-essaouira.com

Cost: One course: 45 - 130 DH, 3 courses: 160 – 285 DH (November 2010) 

Recommended by: Routard 2010             

 

dar LOUBANE                                                                            

On the ground floor of an historic mansion with rather eccentric décor. French-Moroccan cuisine and seafood is served in the patio or one of the interior dining rooms. Booking advisable for the Saturday night Gnaoua evenings (audience participation expected!). Open 12:00 – 14:30 and 19:00 – 22:00 except Wednesdays.

Address: 24 Rue de Rif Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 62 96

Cost: One course: 45 – 130 DH, 3 courses: 155 – 315 DH (November 2008)

Recommended by: Michelin 2007, Rough Guide 2007, Routard 2010

 

 

 

 

LOUBOU'S LOUNGE                                                            

A large modern restaurant/lounge/nightclub just outside the medina in a modern complex next to Hotel des Iles. The tables surround a circular dance floor with subdued lighting and four screens showing music videos. Wide curving stairs lead to an upstairs bar. Drinks, and the food on the short international menu, are pricey. Has a live band from about 22:00 - 00:30 most evenings.

Address: 32 lot Complexe Bin Al Aswar Tel: + 212 (0) 5  24 78 48 72 Website:  www.loubousessaouira.com

Cost: One course: 65 - 175, 3 courses: 225 - 450 DH (November 2010)

 

 

riad al MADINA                                                                            

Former hippy café transformed into an attractive and colourful hotel at the heart of the medina. You can eat in the attractive courtyard at the centre of the riad or in the comfortable dining room on two levels. International menu. Live music on Wednesday and Saturday.

Address: 9 Rue Attarine Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 59 07

Cost: 3 courses 300 DH (October 2011)

 

MAISON DES ARTISTES                                                              

Guesthouse with rather eccentric décor.  Lunch or dinner can be served in the salon or on the terrace overlooking the ocean. Non-residents need to book and choose their food in the morning.

Address: 19 Rue Derb Laâlouj Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 57 99  Website:  www.maisondesartistes.com                         

Cost: 3 courses: 190 DH (March 2009)

 

 

MAISON DU SUD                                                                 

Deceptively spacious restaurant/hotel/art gallery on the main pedestrian street just north of Place Moulay Hassan. A basic 3-course set menu is served in a choice of well-furnished seating areas.  

Address: Avenue Sidi Mohamed Ben Abdalah

Cost: 3 courses: 90 DH  (March 2009)

 

 

MALAK                                                                                         

Youthful ground floor restaurant serving Moroccan home cooking accompanied by occasional Gnawa music.

Address: 7 Rue Moussef Ben Tchfine Tel: 0 (0 212) 6 53 44 62 07

Cost: One course: 15 - 80 DH, 3 courses: 73 - 165 DH  (March 2011)    

 

 

la MAMA                                                                                         

Small first-floor trattoria/pizzeria/café. Has five tables in the cosy interior and a few more on the terrace outside. Friendly atmosphere and assertive Sicilian style cuisine.

Address: 31 Place Chrib Attay Tel: 0 (0 212) 6 68 16 40 69 or 0 (0 212) 6 77 54 24 86

Cost: One course: 20 - 100 DH, 3 courses: 85 - 160 DH  (November 2010)                            

 

 

le MAMOUCHE                                                                     

Enormous restaurant and lounge bar in the new town, just behind Sofitel. Opulent interior decor and a pleasant sheltered garden for drinks. International cuisine. Open 19:30 - 02:30 daily. Bellydancing at 21:30 and 23:00. and DJ from 23:00 on Friday and Saturday. Happy hours 19:30 - 20:30 and 22:30 - 23:30.

Address:  6 Rue Moukaouma Tel: 0 (0 212)  5 24 78 49 00/ 0 (0 212) 6 61137 51 88

Website: Email: restaurant@lemamouch.com

Cost: One course 60 - 245 DH, 3 courses: 230 - 405 DH (October 2011)

 

MAREBLU                                                                         

Tiny restaurant (10 seats) in a side road just up from Bab Marrakech. Cheerful decor and good Italian food.

Address: 2 Rue Sidi Ali Ben Abdullah) Tel: 0 (0 212) 6 67 64 64 38

Cost: One course: 15 - 50 DH, 3 courses: 75 - 95 DH  (May 2010)  

Recommended by: Michelin 2007

 

il MARE                                                                     WiFi

Large café, bar and restaurant with roof terraces overlooking the ramparts and Atlantic Ocean, one of which includes a cosy tented area. Serves seafood, Moroccan, French and Italian specialities. Food is good but relatively expensive. Has live music most evenings.

Address: 43 Rue Yamen (Skala) Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 64 17

Cost: One course 65 - 450 DH, 3 courses: 180 - 640 DH (October 2011) Website: www.ilmaressaouira.com

Recommended by: Routard 2010

 

café MARRAKECH/El FAID                                                           

Serves breakfast (including omelettes and crêpes), Lunch/dinner includes pizza, pasta, seafood, Moroccan dishes, omelettes and salads.

Address: Place Moulay Hassan

Cost: Breakfast: 25 - 40 DH,  One course: 10 - 60 DH, 3 courses: 40 – 110 DH (March 2011)

 

 

le MECHOUAR                                                                          

This is probably the most versatile place in town offering breakfast, lunch, dinner, late night drinks, shisha pipes and live music. You can dine throughout the day in the large dimly lit dining room or at tables outside. Live music may accompany dinner or else begin after 23:00 when the better-off locals come to party. Drinks are available without meals in the restaurant, on the front terrace or in The Corner Pub at the back.

Address: Avenue Oqba Ben Nafia Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 58 28 Website: www.lemechouar.com

Cost: Breakfast: 30 - 50 DH, Lunch: 25 - 165, Dinner (3 courses): 170 - 310 DH (October 2011)

 

 

 

 

residence el MEHDI                                                                             

Deceptively large riad hotel halfway along a covered alleyway which links the medina’s two main shopping streets. The ground floor bar, which is open to non-residents, has a diverse choice of seating areas with décor ranging from colourful Moroccan to cosy and colonial.

Address: 15 Rue Sidi Abdessamih Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 44 47 59 43 Website: www.residenceelmehdi.com                          

 

 

el MENZAH (el MINZAH)                                                                      

The restaurant, which is situated beneath Palazzo Desdemona, is in a large room with impressive interlinked stone arches. The menu is mainly Moroccan/French/Italian with good seafood specialities. There is a separate TV bar at the back which can be accessed either through the restaurant or directly via an unmarked door opposite Aprés Cinq restaurant.

Address: 3 Avenue Okba Ibn Nafia Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 53 08

Cost: One course: 50 – 220 DH, 3 courses: 145 – 325 DH (November 2009)

Recommended by: Footprint Africa 2009, Lonely Planet 2011, Routard 2010

 

chez MERMOZ                                                                                    

Friendly restaurant where you can eat in the first floor salon, under a ground level canopy or  at a couple of tables outside in Place Chrib Attay. The relatively extensive menu includes Moroccan food, omelettes and pasta.

Address: 5 Place Chrib Attay (off Rue Laâlouj) Tel: 0 (0 212) 6 63 49 98 30

Cost: One course: 15 – 80 DH, 3 courses: 45 – 123 DH (November 2010)

 

 

MIYAME RESTO                                                                                                                                                             

Housed in a former Koranic school close to the food souks this simple little family-run restaurant serves grills, seafood and excellent tajines, plus couscous on Friday/Saturday. Seats about 10 people at low tables, plus an extra four by the entrance. Service is laid-back and friendly. While not everything on the short menu may be available, the ingredients are fresh and the cooking can be very good indeed.  Booking recommended (as is the apple tart when it is available!).

Address: 26 Rue Jbala Tel: 0 (0 212)  6 55 58 79 61/0 (0 212) 6 73 59 11 48

Cost: One course: 6 - 60 DH, 3 courses: 41 - 110 DH (March 2011)

café/restaurant MOGADOR (BAR MOG)                                                                                         

Well-run little café on the seafront boulevard with inside and outside eating areas. Popular with locals and tourists alike. Serves breakfast,Moroccan dishes, seafood, snacks and daily speicialities.

Address: Boulevard Mohammed V Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 32 36    

Cost: One course: 15 – 180 DH, 3 courses: 65 – 245 DH (November 2009)

 

 

le MOGADORIEN                                                                                   

Deceptively spacious restaurant within a building dating back to the 18th century. Bright banquette seating under stone arches. Moroccan cuisine and seafood served by friendly, English-speaking waiters.

Address: 7 Place Chefchaouni Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 49 50 or 0 (0 212) 6 61 20 70 57

Website: www.lemogadorien.c.la

Cost: One course: 15 – 95 DH, 3 courses: 60 – 185 DH (March 2010)

la MOUETTE D’ESSAOUIRA                                                            *

A sunny café on the harbour side of Place Moulay Hassan. Menu includes juices, soups, salads, pizzas, tajines and couscous.  Also does take-away pizza. One of the few places in town to serve good decaffienated coffee.

Address: Place Moulay Hassan Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 47 05

Cost: Breakfast: 25 DH, One course: 20 - 50 DH, 3 courses: 45 - 100 DH (January 2010)

dar MOUNIA                                                                      

Centrally situated hotel with a ground floor restaurant serving a range of Moroccan, French, Italian and seafood dishes. The square room is subtly decorated with an array of metal ceiling lanterns, zelliges and tadelakt.

Address: 2 Rue Laalouj Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 29 88

Cost: One course: 25 - 95 DH, 3 courses: 70 - 200 DH (March 2010)

M’RISTE JOUHAR                                                                      

Family-run restaurant serving good Moroccan food, including some interesting specialities as well as a vegetarian set menu. The mixture of Moroccan salads for starter is particularly recommended.  Elegant Moroccan décor and friendly service.

Address: 6 Rue Mohamed Diouri (off Derb Laalouj) Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 78 58 54

Cost: One course: 30 – 80 DH, 3 courses: 80 – 170 (November 2010)

MUMTAZ MAHAL                                                                        

Beautifully restored riad and hammam close to Après Cinq. There is no restaurant but non-residents can admire the craftsmanship by having a drink in the sumptuous bar.

Address: 5 Rue Youssef El Fassi Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 78 53 00 Website: www.riadmumtazmahal.com

 

 

Le NECTAR                                                                                         

Brightly-decorated restaurant with banquette seating inside or 3 tables outside overlooking El Khaima (the tent).  The menu is the usual mix of seafood, Moroccan and Italian dishes.  Open 11:00 – 15:00 and 19:00 – 23:00h

Address: 14 – 15 Place Chrib Attai/Place El Khaima (off Rue Laâlouj) Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 54 85

Cost: One course: 10 – 95 DH, 3 courses: 40 – 180 DH (November 2009)

 

NUAMEN                                                                                           

A local-run restaurant with blue and white-tiled walls and low pine tables which, together with the bright lighting, give it a rather clinical feel. Moroccan cooking with an emphasis on pulses (but not necessarily vegetarian).

Address: rue Khader Ghallan(opposite Rue Ceuta)

Cost: One course: 15 - 80 DH, 3 courses: 65 – 145 DH (November 2010)

OCEAN VAGABOND BEACH CAFÉ                                                    

A healthy 30 minute walk down the beach from the medina. Good for breakfast and  relaxed café-style lunches (blackboard specialities, paninis, pizzas, burgers, chips) and watching, or participating in, watersports (Club Mistral is next door), horse or camel riding.  Sunloungers and deckchairs make this a wonderfully laid back place to have lunch or a drink – and the walk along the beach is lovely.  Open 08:30 – 18:00 daily.

Address: Boulevard Mohamed V Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 78 39 34 Website: www.oceanvagabond.com

Cost: Breakfast: 30 - 50 DH, One course: 20 - 110 DH, 3 courses: 58 - 185 DH (May 2010)

Recommended by: Footprint Africa 2009, Lonely Planet 2011,  Michelin 2007, Routard 2010

 

 

 

OCEAN VAGABOND HOTEL                                                               

Serves good, attractively presented, food in a modern African-themed dining room or in a peaceful garden by the swimming pool. The menu includes interesting salads, omelettes, sandwiches, burgers and tajines. Open to non residents from 11:00 to 23:00. Diners can use the pool for free.

Address: boulevard Lalla Aïcha Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 92 22  Website: www.oceanvagabond.com

Cost: One course: 35 – 110 DH, 3 courses: 95 – 230 DH, childrens menu: 70 DH (May 2009)

 

 

 

OPERA DU SUD                                                                        

Café/restaurant with tables on Place Moulay as well as a relatively smart interior. The menu is the the standard mixture of French, Moroccan, Italian and seafood dishes.

Address: 12 Place Moulay Hassan Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 59 25

Cost: Breakfast: 25 DH, One course: 20 - 100 DH, 3 courses: 70 - 190 DH (October 2010)

 

d’ ORIENT ET D’AILLEURS                                                                WiFi

A deceptively spacious restaurant with tasteful understated décor and lighting. A simple menu of well presented and expertly cooked modern French/Moroccan food is served with enthusiasm by the Swiss/French proprietors, Liliana and Lawrence. The three course set menu is particularly good value and the list of Moroccan wines is better than most. Closed on Saturday. Booking recommended.

Address: 67 bis, Rue Touahen Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 47 59 77 Website: www.dorientetdailleurs.com

Cost: One course: 50 – 140 DH, 3 courses: 90 – 305 (October 2011) 

Recommended by: Routard 2010                           

 

 

 

 

chez el OUAZZANI                                                             *

Little more than a counter with a few chairs, this café is recommended for no-nonsense authentic Moroccan cooking at bargain prices. On Friday you can do as the locals do - take your own dish along for a helping of their excellent couscous then return to your apartment for a relaxed lunch with family and friends.  

Address: 88 Rue Mohammed el Qory

Cost: One course: 3 - 30 DH, 3 courses: 20 – 40 (March 2011) 

Recommended by: Routard 2010

dar l’OUSSIA                                                                     

A large riad-syle hotel with ground floor restaurant and separate bar. You can also get drinks on the  comfortable roof terrace which has great views of the beach.  The elegant vaulted dining room, which has  cosy fires in winter, overlooks the tranquil courtyard with its flower-filled fountain. The short menu features mainly international dishes with a slightly oriental influence. There is couscous and gnawa music on Friday evenings. Friendly, efficient service.

Address: Rue Mohamed Ben Masoud

Cost: One course: 50 - 110, 3 courses: 150 – 340 DH (March 2009)

Recommended by: Footprint Africa 2009

 

 

 

 

Le PANORAMIQUE                                                                           

A healthy 30 minute walk down the beach from the medina this modern café/restaurant is situated in the café/watersports complex which is creeping north from Ocean Vagabond Beach Café. A range of snacks and meals are served in the rather soul-less interior, the shady terrace or at brightly-coloured plastic chairs and tables in the garden overlooking the beach. Open 12:00 – 15:00 h and 19:00 - 22:30 h.

Address: Boulevard Mohamed V Tel: 0 (0 212) 5 24 78 59 56

Cost: Breakfast: 20 - 30 DH, One course: 10 - 140 DH, 3 courses: 60 - 205 DH (April 2011)